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(Application led Mar. 15, 1900.)

(No Model.)

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F51? EURE mm unisi SKINS BV H/S ATT'KS, #jab/k f90-w Patented 0st.23,190 W. B. WILLIAMS. o ADJUSTABLE cHAT.

(Application l-ed las. 16, 1900.)

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NI'InD ASimfree I PATENT FFIC.

WILLIAM R. WILLIAMS, OF LAWRENCE, KANSAS.

ADJUSTABLE CHART.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 660,175, dated October23, 1900. Application filed March 15, 1900. Serial No. 8,747. (Nomodel.)

To all whom it may concern.'

Be it known that I, WILLIAM R. WILLIAMS, a citizen of the United States,and a resident of Lawrence, in the county of Douglas and State ofKansas, have invented certain new and useful Improvements inSkirt-Cutting Charts, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to improvements in adjustable skirt-charts, andaims to provide a device by the use of which ladies skirts of anypreferred style may be cut direct from the material With perfectaccuracy Without the employment of any special patterns and with thenumber of measurements of the form of the wearer aud the amount offitting required reduced to a minimum, thus resulting in great economyof time and labor and enabling any person of ordinary skill, Withoutspecial education or experience in the art, to cut a skirt of any styleconforming to all necessary requirements.

My invention relates especially to a skirtchart having the generalcontour of one of the sections or gores of a skirt, said chart beingprovided with scales of inches around all its edges, a series ofintermediate scales extending longitudinally of the chart and indicatedby perforations through the body of the chart, and a plurality ofpivoted extensions or slides located at the corners of lthe chart, saidslides being also provided With scales indicated thereon to be used inconnection With the scales of the chart proper.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 is a top plan view of one of myskirt-charts with the pivoted slides attached thereto extended inposition for use, the position of such slides when not in use beingshown by dotted lines. Fig'. 2 is an enlarged detached view of theextension or slide employed in cutting circular skirts or other skirtshaving Wide gores. Figs. 3, 4, 5, and. 6 are enlarged detached views offour other pivoted slides employed in connection With my device.

The chart may be made of any suitable material having the requisitetenacity and durability, preferably of heavy document Manila cardboardhaving a smooth-surface finish, and the various lines, inscriptions,dto., upon the chart are printed thereon,preferably from a lithographieplate.

and also the best hanging effect.

The chart is always properly used With,

the lower edge 1, as shown in Fig. 1, toward theloperator, and this edgemay thereforebe termed the front edge, the edge 2, corresponding to theWaist-line, being at the left end of the chart, and the edge 3,corresponding to the bottom of the skirt, being at the right end. Theslides 4 5 6 7 8, the use of 'which will be hereinafter explained, arerotatably attached to the under surface of the chart by pivots 9 10 1112 13, respectively,

and, with the exception of No. 8, are supported on the chart, at theends opposite their pivots, by pin-and-slot joints 14 15,16 17, re-

spectively, headed pins attached to the slides extending through curvedslots in the chart. The slides may be moved in and out by pressureapplied to the heads of said pins, which are larger than said slots.

In the case of the slide 8 for cutting circul lar skirts a tuck or loopis provided, as shown lin dotted lines in Fig. 1, on the under side ofthe chart, Within which the end of the slide is inserted when not inuse. Said slide is also provided With a button or stop 18, which is madeto abut against the upper edge of the chart when in use to hold theslide 8 in Working position at the proper point.

The front edge 1 of the chart is provided: With a scale of inches,measured from the waist-line 2 and extending therefrom preferably to adistance of forty-three and onehalf inches, all above and includingeighteen inches being indicated in figures inscribed on the scale. TheWaist-line 2 is preferably six inches in length, not including either ofthe,

slides 11 8. Saidline is lanv arbitrary curve l which has been found inpractice to be the proper one to secure the best lit of the skirt Sixinches to the right from said Waist-line 2 a hip-line 19 is indicated onthechart in dotted or full lines, as preferred, said hip-line 19 beingIOO such as have been found to secure the best Y results. Saidright-hand edge is formed on an arbitrary curve, which has been found inpractice to be the proper one to make the skirt hang parallel with theiioor, and said edge is provided with a scale graduated from one totwenty-two inches, extending from front to back.

About centrally of the chart a line (designated as scale I) extends fromthe left-hand edge to the right-hand edge, meeting the latter at theeleven-inch mark and meeting the hip-line about half-way between thefront and back edges, after which said line is continued to thewaist-line parallel with the back edge. Along the right-hand end of saidline is arranged a series of perforations 21 through the chart, saidperforations being one-half inch apart, beginning with the minimumlength of a ladys skirt-say twentynine inches-and extending toforty-four inches at the right-hand edge.

Before proceeding further with the description of the chart anillustration will be given of its use in cutting one of the gores of anordinary skirt-for example, the front gore. The material being firstspread out upon a table, and of double thickness in this case, the chartis laid upon the goods with its front edge coinciding throughout withthe fold of the goods and with slide 4 extended. A mark is then made onthe goods to indicate the width of the gore at the top or waist-line,such point being found on the scale or line 2 at a proper distance fromthe corner of slide et, extended usually three inches for a slender ormedium figure. A mark is then made on the goods at the front edge of thechart to indicate the length of front-say, for example, forty inches. Amark is then made through one of the perforations in scale I to indicatethe length of the back edge of the gore, which should be one-half inchlonger than the front edge to give proper curvature to the bottom edge.The chart is then moved on the goods or drawn toward the operator andplaced so that its back edge will coincide with the marks made at the'waist-line and in scale I. A line is then drawn on the goods between thepoints mentioned, using the back edge of ing the bottom curve in asimilar manner. An ordinary skirt being composed of a front and backgore and two or more side gores, the next step is to cut the side gores.For this purpose an additional scale E is provided on the chart,extending from end to end thereof about four inches from the back edgeand eighteen inches from the front edge at the bottom line 3. Thegradations of said scale are indicated by a row of perforationsextending through the chart one-'half an inch apart and numbered towardthe right from twenty-nine to forty-four and one-half inches. The loweredge of the chart is placed on the straight edge of the goods, theproper measurement of the waist-line of the gore indicated on the goodsat the proper point on scale 2, and the length of the front edge of theside gore marked at the proper point Y on scale l, which, to continuethe previous illustration, would be forty and one half inches. The backedge of the side gore is then located at the proper point on scale E bymarking through the perforation at that point or at forty-one inches.The chart is then moved toward the operator and a line drawn on thegoods, as before, between the points marked, from which line the propercut maybe made. The lower line of the gore is then located by using theright-hand edge of the chart, as before described. The second side goreusually employed would be drafted in the same manner. The back gore, ifmade with a central seam, as usual, would be drafted in the same manneras the front and side gores, except that for this purpose, the back gorebeing the widest section of the skirt, the entire width of the chart isusually employed, its front edge being used to locate and draft thefront edge of said gore and its back edge for the back edge of saidgore.

The description of the construction and uses of the chart thus far hasreferred to the drafting of ordinary skirts. For drafting flaring orbell-shaped skirts additional curved scales J and K are provided, lyingnear the straight scales I and E, respectively, but curving forward fromsaid scales from near the hip-line downward for about two-thirds of thelength of the skirt. Said curved scales J and K are indicated byperforations about two inches apart, through which, in practice, marksare made on the material, and after the chart is removed the proper lineis located by tracing for back edge of front or side gore from point topoint thus indicated. The continuation of this curved line to the bottomof the skirt is made by the use of the slide 6. The back edge of thechart is brought to coincide with the ends of the curved line beforelocated, and slide 6 is then extended as far as necessary, according tothe degree of flare desired, and the draft then completed by using therear edge of said slide as a guide. The end of the gore is drafted inthe manner before described for the ordinary gores, except that the endof the slide is utilized for the part IOO IIO

included in the Hare. A curved scale L (indicated by perforations) isalso provided, `extending along the front edge of the chart, fordrafting the front line of the side and back gores of flaring skirts. Inpractice the front edge of the chart is made to coincide with the frontedge of the material and the perforations utilized in locating the upperportion of the line of the gore in the manner before described for theback edges. The slide' is utilized for drafting the bottom extension ofthe front and lower edges of said gore for iiaring skirts in the samemanner as slide 6 is used, as before described. y

The slide 4l is used extended, as in Fig. l, for drafting the front gorein order to secure the proper front line for said gore, but is not usedfor the side gores, the front lines of which conform at this point tothe shape of the chart proper.

The slide 7 is for straightening and raising the waist-line when cuttingthe back goreon the fold of the goods or without a seam in the center ofsaid gore. If said gore is made with a central seam, the waist-line isconformed to the shape of the chart proper.

For drafting and cutting circular skirts or other skirts or gores withwide tops an additional scale F is provided on the chart and theelongated graduated extension 8, pivoted on the chart at 13. Said scaleF is located in the upper right-hand corner of the chart, parallel withits upper edge and about two inches therefrom. Itis indicated byperforations about one-half inch apart placed opposite the figures ofthe scale on the upper edge of the chart, so that said figures may beutilized in connection with scale F.

The extension S is provided with a scale of inches measuring when inoperative position from the lower left-hand corner of the chart, withthe slide 4 extended a distance, preferably,of twenty-two and one-halfinches. The left-hand edge of said slide is a continuation of the curveof the waist-line 2 of the chart proper and is an arbitrary curve foundin practice to be correct. The figures on the scale representmeasurements on the waistline from front to back. At the right of saidfigures are lines and inscriptions indicating the total net waistmeasurements to which the figures on the scale correspond, the tigureson the scale indicating the width of the top of one side of the skirt,(both sides being usually cut at once,) and therefore the distance to bemarked off on the goods for the top line of the' skirt in drafting it.From this top line is to be deducted the darts or arrow-shaped excisionsto be made in order to get the proper fit at the waist. For example, ifthe waist-line of the skirt when completed is to have a totalmeasurement of twenty-four inches the mark on the goods (the same beingdoubled or faced is to be made at the eighteen-inch point on the scale,which represents thirty-six inches, including both thicknesses of thematerial. The excisions for darts, fullness, &c., usually taking up sixY inches on each side, or twelve inches altogether, will reduce thethirty-six inches to twenty-four inches,the net measurement desired. Thewaist-line for the circular skirt having been located and marked on thegoods, as described, using the edge of extension 8 as a guide, the frontedge of the chart is applied to the fold of the goods and the length offront marked off in the same manner as for the front gores of ordinaryskirts. A mark is then made on the goods through the proper perforationin scale F, dropping one inch lower than the point located on the frontline. A mark is also made on the goods at the hip-line on the upper edgeof the chart. The chart is then moved forward until its front edgecoincides with the point thus located and the same process repeated, thewaist-line of the chart proper being always made to coincide with thecurved line previously drawn on the goods by the use of extension 8 andthe lower line of the skirt being drafted by using the right-hand edgeof the chart in the manner before described for gores of ordinaryskirts. After this process has been performed three times the back edgeof the skirt is drafted by using the back edge of the chart as a guide,as in the case of the gores. In this process the waist-line is not to beallowed to overrun the measurement previously made for such line, and,if necessary, any excess would be taken off by placing the upperleft-hand corner of the IOO chart at the limit-of waist measurement(eighteen inches in the example given) and drafting the back edge withthe chart in that y position. n

At the edge 2 or waist-line of the chart,as at 22, and also on extension8, are indicated converging lines to be used as a guide in drafting thedarts or excisions to be made to take out fullness at the waist-line. Aseries of perforations 23 in the body of the chart provides for locatingthe point of the dart, and the side lines may be located by marking onthe goods at the outer margins of the darts. In the case of the dartindicated on extension S no perfor-ations are necessary as the width ofthe extension corresponds to the proper length of the dart.

IIO

Figs. 3, 4, 5, and 6 are enlarged details of l slides at 5 6 7. Slides 5and 6 are provided on their curved ends with scales to aid in fixing theamount of curvature in the gores of iiaring skirts. vided with scales,but simply with inscriptions indicating their uses.

Slides et and 7 are not pro-l The foregoing illustrations anddescription have been given to indicate the general quired preliminaryto the use of the chart are three in number-Viz., the size of the Waistand the length of front and back skirt. These being settled allneoecessary details may be Worked out and drafted expeditiously andcorrectly by the use of the chart, as described.

It is obvious that the ehart may be utilized for drafting either skirts,linings, or patterns.

Having described my invention, I claim as new and desire to secure byLetters Patent- A skirt-cutting chart having the shape of one of thegores of a skirt, the bottom edge thereof having the correct curvaturefor

